CoLAB Project – Airain Type 20 Re-Edition
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The Story of Airain and its Legendary Timepiece
Other characteristics of the original Type 20 chronographs were: a 38mm diameter and 14mm thick case, a black dial with luminescent indexes and hands, a self-winding mechanical movement with a power reserve of over 35 hours, a relative precision of + or – 8 seconds per day and finally, the capacity to withstand the running, stopping and resetting of the chronograph more than 300 times without causing any problems to the movement.
Type 20 Re-Edition
The hand-applied Super-LumiNova color has been carefully chosen to recall the original luminescent material of the original Type 20. The 39,5mm stainless steel case is slightly bigger than the original to match modern standards without losing the allure of its famous ancestor.
The Type 20 Re-Edition is powered by our caliber AM1 which boasts 60 hours of power reserve, developed and made by Manufacture La Joux-Perret S.A. in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland.
Our designer: Matthieu Allégre
Matthieu is a senior freelance watch designer who works in the watch industry since 2013. He works for many famous brands and well knowned watch design agencies of Switzerland. After starting his carreer at Manufacture Piaget he launched his own design agency in 2015. He is constantly looking for improvement and likes to think out of the box to create attractive, innovative and well thought out products.
Tom and Matthieu first met at EPHJ, a famous international trade show dedicated to high precision in the fields of horology, micro-technology and medtech, in Geneva in 2016. They immediately understood each other well, which resulted in many phone calls, brainstorming sessions and the collaboration for the design of the Venturist. To the great satisfaction of both, which is why Matthieu was now also hired as a designer for the Airain Type 20 Re-Edition.
Update 1 – Design
November 24, 2020
To appeal to the more novelty-focussed watch lovers, we also designed a celebratory Brown Limited Edition. It has all the beautiful features mentioned above, but it will truly turn heads with its chocolate brown dial and strap. As it is a limited edition, it will undoubtedly become as hotly in demand as its predecessor.
Update 2 – Movement
January 15, 2021
Honouring Airain’s longstanding tradition, our Airain Type 20 Re-Edition is gradually taking shape, and our word is she becoming a looker! With her fully integrated mechanical chronograph architecture and impeccable button alignment, Calibre AM1 will be a work of art.
Saluting her old Army predecessor Valjoux 222, Calibre AM1 will be featuring a hand-wound column wheel chronograph with flyback complication. With her Côtes de Genève decorated bridge, blued steel column wheel and 28 jewels she is an absolute beauty! All carefully crafted by Manufacture La Joux-Perret in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland.
Technical details
Caliber: Manual-wind column wheel chronograph caliber AM1 with flyback complication
Power reserve: 60 hours
Chronograph: 30 minutes
Jewels: 24 jewels
Shock protection: Incabloc
Update 3 – Technical Development
March 19, 2021
Since the current situation does not allow us to travel, we have done everything digitally remote and fortunately that worked absolutely fine. All technical drawings were approved on March 11 which concluded the technical development phase. We are moving into the prototype phase where all parts like case, movement, hands, dials and straps are made for approval.
Update 4 – Prototypes
August 15, 2021
We are thrilled to announce that the Airain Type 20 Re-Edition prototypes are ready. And that they are actually almost perfect; they are 99.5% OK, so there are only a few small things we will adjust in the final production. Main criterion is that the Re-Edition should feel like the original Type 20. In our opinion, this mission is accomplished. When wearing the Re-Edition, especially ref 421.436 with black dial and cognac strap, we often catch ourselves thinking we are wearing one of the old ones, which is also in our possession. Only when taking a second look, we realise that this one looks brighter and more crisp and therefore is the new one..
We would like to take this opportunity to thank those of you who already pre-ordered this new watch. Thank you for your trust and for getting to this important milestone with us! The second pre-order round will start on Friday August 20 at 3pm CEST. As soon as this round is completed and we have discussed all prototype feedback and changes with our manufacturers, final production will start! The first 150 movements are already waiting for us at manufacturer La Joux-Perret.



Update 5 – Prototype Evaluation And Production Progress
October 14, 2021
How does it go from here? Now that the all technical drawings have been approved, we have a final product and all the components are officially ordered. It won’t be long until we will have all the delivery times and we will know when the assembly can take place and of course final delivery.
Throughout the process of changes and improvements, we have noticed that suppliers are under a lot of pressure from all the different brands that want to catch up with their production after downsizing during covid-19. This also means that lead times of components are much longer than normal. Of course, we are doing everything we can to keep the momentum going. Stay with us, we’re almost there!
Update 6 – Production Progress
November 26, 2021
It’s confirmed! We can officially say that the production of all components for the Airain Type 20 Re-Edition (including Brown Limited Edition) has started. So good news, but we still have to be patient until the first series is ready. We are going to explain exactly why.
Let’s start by answering the question everyone is waiting for; when will the watches be ready? As it looks now (meaning if all suppliers can keep to their delivery promise) the watches will be ready by the end of May. Given the number of orders we have, we should be able to have all watches delivered in June, or early July at the absolute latest.
Then the explanation why it still takes a while; apart from longer lead times for a lot of components (as explained in our Oct update) this is mainly due to the limited availability of the main raw material we need for the watch cases; stainless steel. The general shortage of stainless steel leads to long lead times which greatly determines the delivery of the final production. Basically, we can’t do much more than wait in line but there is good news in the meantime: our batch is now confirmed for delivery at the end of January. If we then add the production of the cases (out of the received stainless steel), assembly and testing, we get to the month of May when the watches are ready to be shipped.
So, the end is in sight and there is an estimated delivery date. Of course, in the meantime we will keep everyone informed and we will show you images and/or video of the production as soon as we can.
Photo credit: Fratellowatches
Update 7 – Assembly to Start Soon
May 25, 2022
Production for the Airain Type 20 Re-Edition and Brown Limited Edition is moving along smoothly. We’ve already received the first of two batches of our movement, made by La Joux-Perret, and they will be delivering the second batch next week. All components are ready, and we’ll soon start assembly of the watch heads!
Unfortunately, operations in our Italian strap maker’s facilities were stalled due to a surge in COVID-19 cases. They are doing everything in their power to have our straps ready by 8 June. This means an approximate delay of two and a half weeks before we can start shipping.
This does not mean, however, that your shipment will be delayed. We want your watches on your wrists before our summer break (which starts mid July).
We will be using the delay to prepare packaging and labels upfront as much as we can. You can help us by checking your shipping address and contact details, and let us know if anything seems wrong.
Update 8 – Production and Assembly Video
July 5, 2022
Supported by fans all over the world and produced in Switzerland, our Type 20 is the result of a longstanding desire to revive this iconic timepiece.
Watch how it all comes together.